Beyond Gondolas and Crowds

Cinzia at Da Romano (Burano)

Burano, one of the three major islands in the Venetian lagoon, is a refreshing day out of Venice.  It's colorful houses were popularized in the 1950's movie "Summertime" (with Rosano Brazzi and Katherine Hepburn). It will not make you go, "Wow!" but it is oh so relaxing and well worth the hour long vaporetto ride. Leave early in the morning and you can see the more famous Murano or the wilder (i.e. less developed) Torcello all in one day. I would, however, think this trifecta might be somewhat tiring.

Burano still features the dying art of lacemaking.  While only a few grandmothers still practice (if you're lucky you can see one or two of these ladies at work) this most labor intensive tradition, the results are undeniably beautiful (if expensive) and make wonderful gifts.  The proprietors of the 3 or 4 high quality shops will make a special effort to assure you that their product is genuine.  Like Venetian glass, much of the lace of Burano is made in China.  This well could be a lost treasure with the passing of the current generation of lace makers.

We had an A+ lunch at Trattoria da Romano (www.daromano.it) Family run since opening in 1910 there is a timeless air about this place.  White jacketed waiters perform a seemingly effortless dance and the food is well, let's just say that we gave the place A+ and let it go at that.  OK, it's pricey.  But it's only money.  You throw away the receipt.  You keep the memories.  That's a fair deal.

Cinzia - Piazza della Frutta (Padua)

About half and hour by train, Padua was an important medieval city and the accademic center of the Venetian Republic.  It's university was founded in 1222.  Dante and Copernicus studied there.  Galileo taught there.  But it is best known for Giotto's 13th century frescoes (which gave birth to Renaissance art) in the Scrovegni Chapel (which you can visit - 25 people at a time for 15 minutes) and for the Basilica of San Antonio di Padova.

St. Anthony (the patron saint of "the lost" - lost keys, lost causes, lost anything) is perhaps the most popular saint in all of Italy. It's not for nothing so many Italian men are called Tony.

Without too much exaggeration the order of popular veneration in Italy looks something like this:

#1.  St. Anthony

#2.  (Or, perhaps, #1A) Padre Pio

#3.  The Virgin Mary

#4    Jesus

In any case, the Basilica, construction of which began almost immediately after Anthony's death in 1231, is a sprawling building whose domes and minaret-like towers bring to mind the Byzantine influence of Venice's San Marco.  Works by Donatello adorn the main altar and his bronze equestrian statute is in the courtyard.

The real attraction, of course, is the tomb of St. Anthony.  Two notable things about the tomb:  For a Fransican (whose founder, St. Francis, preached voluntary poverty and simplicity) the tomb is wildly elaborate.  But I guess we can't really blame Anthony for that.  The other striking aspect is that is that the tomb, unlike most marble statuary, is warm to the touch.  I'm not sure what to make of that.